JLT Performance True Cold Air Kit for 94-95 Mustang GT Install

Follow along as I install a JLT True Cold Air kit on a stock 1995 Mustang GT Convertible.

The first thing I did when the kit arrived was open it up and take the main tube out and compare it to my Opal Frost Mustang GT. I was very pleased with the finish and color match. If there was a difference in the color, I couldn't spot it.

Here she is, in all her bone stock glory. Well, almost bone stock. There is an MSD Pro Billet distributor, which is over kill on my stocker but I needed a distributor in a hurry (bad bearings) and we had that one on the shelf. It'll work when I get heavily into modding this car, so I don't look at it as a waste.

The first thing you're going to do is remove the airbox and OEM intake tube. Start by removing this 5/16" bolt holding the airbox to the inner fender. Put this bolt on the side as you'll be reusing it later.

Disconnect the MAF harness and ACT harness from the main wiring harness

Loosen all the clamps and remove the intake piping and airbox. It helps to unlatch the air filter section so you can remove the OEM setup in three sections. Also, the airbox is attached to the inner fender with two bushings that require a little pulling to get them out of their mounts. You'll also have to remove the vent tube going to the valve cover. Save it for later as you'll be reusing it.

Here will be the result of all of that disassembly.

Take the three parts to your bench as you'll have to do some disassembly on it, removing sensors and wiring from them.

The MAF housing will have to be disassembled by prying it open at the clips. I used two screwdrivers - one to fit in between the two parts of the housing so I could twist the handle and apply seperating pressure to it and the other to gently push up on the clip. Work your way around the housing seperating the clips.

Doing that will reveal the MAF sensor. You can disconnect the harness to the MAF and then remove the nuts attaching the MAF sensor to the housing by using a 10mm socket.

You'll have to remove the wiring from the housing. This is easily completed by gently pushing the edges of the grommet into the larger hole.

You'll then remove the screen from the MAF sensor as it cannot be reused due to the MAF adapter that you'll be installing in the next step.

Here's the MAF adapter supplied with the JLT kit. It allows the S&B conical filter to be installed on the end of the MAF sensor. If you are installing a larger MAF unit, you should do it now. The adapter can only go one way as it has a hump on the top to match the hump on the MAF sensor. Install the adapter with the supplied allen bolts. The proper allen wrench size for these bolts is 3/16".

Here's what the assembled pieces look like.

Next, you'll have to fish the MAF and ACT wiring into their appropriate spots. Connect the harness to the car's main wiring harness and move the wiring into the small hole in the inner fender. Leave the ACT harness protruding out from the small hole as it will plug into the JLT main tube in a near stock location.

Snake the MAF connector through to the large opening and leave it here to be plugged in before you install the main tube and assembly.

Next, you'll have to slit this tubing to install on the JLT apron cover. This will prevent the JLT main tube from getting scratched when working with the tube, getting it into it's final resting place. Make sure you slit the tubing on the side noted in the picture as this way, you won't have to fight the tube as it has a memory from being coiled up on a roll for much of its life.

Here's the apron with the tubing installed on the opening. Notice that my tubing was a little short, so I positioned it with the split at the bottom as when the tube is installed, you will not see it.

Now it's time to assemble the main tube and assorted components in preparation to put it on the car. First, slip the apron shield on the main tube, making sure that, if the kit is a custom color, the proper side is facing out into the engine compartment. Now comes the fun part -- putting on the reducing elbow. This piece is a tight fit. JLT recommends putting the reducer in the microwave or use soapy water. I ended up doing both, first using the microwave for 20 seconds and then putting a *little* soapy water on the inside of the reducer. After a little twisting and pushing, it went on.

Here you can see, it's a tight fit. Look at the bulge on the reducer. I then put the supplied hose clamp on it so it was snug enough as not to fall off but not quite too snug where I couldn't turn it if I had to.

Now you'll install the other end of the reducing elbow on the MAF sensor. I snugged this clamp pretty good as it's required to hold the MAF sensor in there (it's not a snug fit at all).

Install the throttle body extension reducer on the main tube and tighten it down well. This is a snug fit as well, but not nearly as tough as the reducing elbow.

You can also install the throttle body extension pipe as it gets a little tight once everything is being installed on the car. This was a tight fit as well, but it does fit on there!

Now, remove the ACT from the OEM intake tube and install it on the JLT main tube in the grommet as shown in the next picture.

Install this sensor by turning and pushing until you don't see threads and the sensor is flat against the grommet.

Before you install the main tube, tape up the opening flange so it doesn't scratch the paint on the tube. It'll be covered by the fender apron shield when you're done.
Now, install the main tube.
I did a trial fit first to make sure everything is in the proper place. Once I was sure everything was correct, I took out the tube and tightened all the hose clamps as you'll not be able to gain access later. Final installation begins by connecting the MAF harness to the MAF sensor. Insert the MAF into the large opening. It'll take some twisting and turning to get it in there the right way, but it'll go. Use caution when turning the main pipe - do your best not to bang it against underhood items like the alternator. Move the fender apron shield down to its proper location and bolt it in. You may not want to bolt it all the way in, but it will help hold the main tube in place. I tried it both ways and bolting it in helped a bit.

Next, install the silicone reducer onto the throttle body and tighten it down with the hose clamp. Install the throttle body extension tube, if you haven't already on the bench, and work it onto the silicone connector. This was tough. It's a definite tight fit, but it will go on. I used a screwdriver to help get it on the extension tube. *Don't pry on the tube, of course, simply stick it in the silicone adapter and pull upward. Once that is on, tighten the supplied hose clamp. Install the vent tube back on the valve cover and connect it to the barbed fitting on the throttle body extension tube.

Almost done with the install -- next is just the filter. I loosened the inner fender well to make it easy to get in there. A tool like this one makes it easy to unscrew the fender liner without taking off the tire. Snug up the hose clamp on the filter. That way, when you push it onto the flange of the MAF sensor, it'll hold itself there so you can tighten it. The supplied hose clamps can be tightened with a 1/4" drive 5/16" socket.

Here's the filter installed.

Check all your connection to make sure you plugged everything in and your clamps are tight. Take her for a drive!
I like the looks and it will be great when I do the upcoming modifications to the car!

Interested in this kit? Check it out here.